Dublin

The Republic's capital, and its largest and most cosmopolitan city, Dublin makes a fine introduction to the country. It's a curious and colourful city of fine Georgian buildings, tangible literary history and extremely welcoming pubs, all on a scale that's very human. The city is bisected by the River Liffey, and is bounded to the north and south by hills. While heading south over the Liffey, you can't help but notice the huge white expanse of the 1780s Custom House on the northern bank, just one of Dublin's many fine Georgian buildings. Also on the north of the Liffey, the Four Courts were built by the same architect, James Gandon; their shelling in 1922 sparked off the Civil War. There are fine views of the city from the upper rotunda of the central building. Trinity College is uppermost in the list of attractions south of the river. Founded by Elizabeth I in 1592, the university complex boasts a campanile and many glorious old buildings. Its major attraction, however, is the Book of Kells - an illuminated manuscript dating from around 800 AD, making it one of the oldest books in the world. The masterpiece is housed in the Library Colonnades. Other magnificent buildings include the imposing Bank of Ireland, originally built to house the Irish Parliament; Christ Church Cathedral, parts of which date back to the original wooden Danish church of the 11th century; and St Patrick's Cathedral, said to have been built on the site where St Patrick baptised his converts, and dating from 1190 or 1225 Another of Dublin's more obvious landmarks is its castle. More a palace than a fort, it was originally built on the orders of King John in 1204, although only the Record Tower survives from this original construction. Dublin's fine Georgian buildings can be see to their best advantage from St Stephen's Green - a nine-hectare expanse of greenery right in the city centre. Other notable vantage points for spotting Georgian architecture include Merrion Square, Ely Place and Fitzwilliam Square. Dublin has a wide range of accommodation possibilities, though it's wise to book ahead in summer. There's a congregation of hostels around O'Connell St, north of the Liffey, while the south side is given over to neater, cleaner places. The area just north of the river is packed with restaurants of all types. The old, interesting and rapidly revitalising Temple Bar area, south of the Liffey, is Dublin's most concentrated restaurant area.